Last week we watched the episode of Anthony Bourdain No Reservations where he visits his friend Michael Ruhlman in Cleveland. The episode was filmed in 2007 and is part of season 3. Yeah, we’re a little behind. After watching the show we were inspired to go and check out some of the places that they visited on the show. I am embarrassed to say that I had never been to Cleveland before, so I was excited to see the city and have a mini state-cation. With Pierogi Champion (and Cleveland native) Roland as our driver and tour guide, it was inevitable that as well as being a homage to No Reservations it would also be a pierogi pilgrimage.
Our first stop was Sokolowski’s University Inn, one of the places that they ate at on No Reservations. You can watch some video of Bourdain’s visit on their website. Sokolowski served Eastern European ‘grandmother style’ food, cafeteria style. The portions are huge and the place has a very old school vibe. I tried the stuffed cabbage, pierogies and some pickled beets. The pierogies were swimming in a pool of butter but I guess that’s how grandma liked them.
Ideally we would have found a comfy couch to lie on for a few hours while we digested that pile of food, but that doesn’t make for much a road trip, so we went to check out downtown Cleveland and walk off our lunch instead. It was a beautiful day with blue skies and not too hot, perfect for walking around. Downtown Cleveland has a lot of impressive buildings, open spaces and views of Lake Erie. Cleveland is certainly more than the depressing industrial wasteland cliche that is overplayed by the media.
We found the Free Stamp, the world’s largest rubber stamp – another as-seen-on-TV-Bourdain-was-here-moment.
Just as I was starting to feel less like a stuffed cabbage roll, what should we stumble upon but Lola, one of the two restaurants run by James Beard Award winning chef Michael Symon. Why yes, it was featured on No Reservations, and yes, Anthony Bourdain was here. We planned just to have a look at the menu, which turned into looking around inside, which turned into not being able to resist trying the beef cheek pierogies, which turned into us ordering three appetizers and a side of french fries (blame the latter on the pregnant woman, although I ate most of them). Somehow there was a feeling of inevitability about the whole thing.
We were really glad that we had succumbed. The beef cheek pierogies, reportedly the most popular appetizer, were accompanied by two sauces, horseradish and mushroom and they were rich and sumptuous and melt in the mouth good. The braised bacon was the tenderest piece of pork belly that you could cut with your fork with a coffee rub and served with a nectarine and apricot sauce and almonds. I chose the excellent charcuterie plate of the day which had duck speck, cured pork loin and two types of salami with pickles, mustard and toast. Tasty treats and thank goodness, not too filling! Everything on the menu sounded really good and next time I hope to come here hungry. The lunch prices were very reasonable, the service friendly and attentive and we were welcomed in even though it was 2pm.
More walking, more photos and a short drive later and it was time for the West Side Market. We were there late in the day and so we didn’t get the full hustle and bustle experience of the market but it was still impressive. The WSM has over 100 vendors and compared to Columbus’s North Market has a lot more variety and competition. It also has a grittier feel and is less of a tourist and office worker lunch destination and more of a daily shopping location for city residents. There are countless butchers and produce stalls and less emphasis on prepared meals. I was a little disappointed in the lack of celebration of local foods. I saw one sign for Ohio Tomatoes and a couple of butchers advertising Ohio raised meat but there was a lot less local pride on display than I expected.
Roland made a bee line for the Pierogi Palace to check out the wide variety of filling flavors on offer, we could see the labels but sadly they weren’t open. We spotted pierogies at some of the other stalls as well and have lots of ideas for future pierogi fillings.
We drove past Zubal Books (another Bourdain stop) but no vintage twinkie filling for us. We were headed for The Sausage Shoppe, the final destination in our No Reservations knock-off tour. The Sausage Shoppe was a lighter and brighter version of Thurn’s, but without the intoxicating aroma of wood smoke. They have won lots of awards for their ham, jerky and ham salad. The Sausage Shoppe had a few different specialities and one of the things I was unfamiliar with were the rice and barley rings so of course I had to buy one, along with some mettwurst and jerky. The assistant was very friendly and knowledgeable about all of the offerings. Her passion and pride in the pork products was evident.
Obviously it was just a taste of Cleveland (pardon the pun) but it was a fun day trip and a good introduction. There are more photos on flickr. I think the only Bourdain food stop we missed, apart from Michael Ruhlman’s house, was Skyline Chili, but we have them in Columbus, and one my trip there was one too many. I hope to go back to Cleveland and further explore the culinary scene. I have heard about some great restaurants, but more recommendations and tips for other food destinations are welcome.
We are also planning our next Ohio road trip. This is into the uncharted by Bourdain territory of Cincinnati, so I would love some recommendations of where to go. I know that Jungle Jim’s is on the agenda, and probably The Party Source, but what are the other food related highlights of Cincinnati?
August 6, 2009
Can’t wait to get your impressions of Jungle Jim’s. I went last year for the first time and was amazed. Keep in mind they do not allow photography inside. There are signs posted. Not sure how strict they are.
August 6, 2009
Love Your blog! I do have a few tips for cincy. You may like Melt(meltnorthside.com). In fact the whole area of the northside is kind of cool in my opinion.
Also,The Findlay market is a must(www.findlaymarket.org), being the oldest public market in Ohio, and I think one of the best.
I have been to Jungle Jims a few times over the years. I would bolt to the back for international food section, as the first half of the store is not much more than a supersized Kroger, if I recall.
August 6, 2009
We visit Cleveland several times year to stay with my uncle. There’s actually tons of great foodie stuff there. I was always sad Tony didn’t go to the Great Lakes Brewing Company because they have such awesome beer and good eco-friendly habits.
Best friends are in Cincinnati so we go there a few times a year too. Not a food destination, but IKEA is fun if you’ve never been. The Comet Bar has decent Mexican food, great beer selection and hot bluegrass on Sunday nights. Jungle Jim’s is an adventure as promised. Hofbrauhaus is a blast with good German food. It is a chain imported from Europe, but still fun.
August 7, 2009
I always recommend Greenup Cafe, especially for brunch.
August 9, 2009
Can’t say I’m a huge fan of Pierogi Palace’s pierogies. Their dough is too thick/chewy for my tastes, and the fillings are pretty bland. Next time you’re in Cleveland, check out Melt Bar and Grilled in Lakewood (just to the west of downtown Cleveland) (http://www.meltbarandgrilled.com/), Gaelic Imports (http://www.gaelicimports.com/), and Momocho (http://www.momocho.com/).
Jungle Jim’s is definitely not to be missed (we’re in love with the International sections), ditto with the Findlay Market. As far as meals, everyone says the best burger ever is at Terry’s Turf Club, and if you want to go the local foods route, there’s this place: http://slimsrestaurant.com/
Both cities are super fun (although Cleveland holds an edge for me because I have friends there), and I’m sure that you’ll find the best of what’s to be had in either place. 🙂
August 9, 2009
Thanks for all the great tips, it sounds like there is a lot more to see (and eat) in Cleveland — and also some really interesting ideas for Cinci. I’m guessing that Cincinnati style chili is going to have to fit into the agenda too – any suggestions for chili (other than Skyline)?
August 9, 2009
Well, Cincinnati also has Gold Star Chili, which is a lot like Skyline. But if you’ve eaten at the Columbus Skyline’s, its pretty much the same thing.
Our last trip to Cincinnati, we went to a Peruvian place right down the road from Jungle Jim’s (on Dixie Highway) called Sabor Peruano. Great stuff.
August 11, 2009
Yay! I grew up in Cincy and lurve some cincy style chili! I actually slightly prefer Gold Star (I think it’s meatier) I think Empress still has a few locations around and it’s the original. I haven’t tried Dixie Chili in KY but have heard good reviews.
I second the suggestions of Melt and Findlay Market. I could spend hours in Jungle Jims and you can’t overlook their cheese or produce selections. Awesome.
Aglamesis for Ice Cream. BonBonerie for a great bakery, also Servati’s (really great pretzels). High end steak would be a Jeff Ruby restaurant, but in particular the Precinct.
Statue of Cincinnatus down by the ‘Big Mac’ bridge at Sawyer Point is an interesting site. You can find a ton of great eats in Hyde Park Square and Mount Adams, which also has really great views. Northern KY and in particular Mainstrasse in Covington has great shops and eats. Hofbrau is interesting but I would not highly recommend the food.
Have a great time, I look forward to reading the follow up post!
August 11, 2009
Ooops…can’t forget, if you are going over labor day weekend you absolutely positively have got to go to Oktoberfest. I’m not sure if they still make the claim of biggest-Oktoberfest-outside-of-Munich but it is very big and very German (all the local german descendents). Also, a lot of restaurants serve goetta at breakfast and you can also find it at local grocery stores (Jungle Jims as well) and it is a must try in my opinion. Good stuff.
August 19, 2009
I heart Michael Symon. Even wrote about him on the ol’ blog after we visited Lola on 8/2. He’s the bee’s knees 🙂 🙂